18th World Military Taekwondo Championships in South Korea, May, 2008 – Photos by G. Brundage
Azerbaijan
August 2016
Azerbaijan’s WTF logo posted outside the training hall
Media liaison Jalal Safarov showing Azerbaijan’s WTF trophy room
Writer with Farida Azizova (Women’s −67 kg) ranked 5th in the Rio Olympics.
Milad Beigi scoring big time at the 2016 Summer Olympics – 80 kg. division. Photo by Javid Nikpour for Tasnim News Agency, CC-BY-4.0
Patimat Abakarova after training during my visit.
Patimat Abakarova, (Women’s −49 kg.) at the 2016 Summer Olympics awarding ceremony, photo by Ilgar Jafarov, CC BY-SA 4.0
Azerbaijan National Museum of History
Azerbai National Museum of History – Two swords c. 1,000 BC
Artists depiction of Zorkana, the House of Strength, Azerbaijan National Museum of History
Heavy practice shields used at Zorkana, the House of Strength
Maiden’s Tower, Baku – thought to be constructed by Zoroastrians, now a museum
Bukhara Caravansarai in Baku – Now a restaurant
A restaurant with exceptional food and kindly staff. One of them and I went swimming the next day
Flame Towers- three skyscrapers in Baku, Azerbaijan
Front entrance to Shirvanshah’s Palace, Baku
Masjid in Shirvanshah’s Palace
Charming and cheerful tour guides
Shirvanshahs Palace Baku
Painting photographed at art shop in Baku’s Old Town. There was nobody there watching the shop while I was there, so I never got the painter’s name.
China
“Yi Ru” Taekwondo Dojang in the Changping District of Beijing. Led by 4th Dan Ma Zun a graduate of Shichahai Sports School in Beijing, (on right in the photo) this WTF Taekwondo Dojang opened in 2001 and has some 600 students and six or seven instructors.
Students training at Yi Ru Dojang in Changping
A proud instructor at Yu Ri Dojang
Photo of a small part of Beijing University’s Taekwondo team – as it was during vacation and most students were traveling or vising their home towns. Taekwondo Quanjangnim Ri Myong Chul is center right.
Taekwondo wedding – the happy couple first met at Beijing University’s Taekwondo Dojang and found fulfillment there in more ways than one.
Taekwondo wedding
Weddings in China are festive time yet there also some ceremonial activities that are endearing.
At Chinese weddings they usually rent a wedding hall for many hours and guests and the food keeps on coming! Wow!
Beijing ShichaHai Sports School is where many – but not all – of China’s national teams train. Their national Taekwondo team trains here. There is a hotel inside, and visitors are welcome to stay and join the training. I went to Shichahai sports school for about six months.
The history of Shaolin Kung Fu is intimately tied to Zen (Chán 禅 in Chinese) philosophy.
Silk Road traveler’s visit to Songshan Shaolin in 2011
Young monk at Songshan Shaolin
Songshan Shaolin
Shaolin Temple Tagou Martial Arts School is the largest Kung Fu school in the world. It is located adjacent to, and partly within the Shaolin Monastery. These are some of the Tagou School
Wudang Temple – located high in the mountains is often shrouded my mists – I also visited here in 2011.
Wudangshan
Wudang Tai Chi training/demonstration
Wudang Tai Chi training/demonstration
Temple bell at Wudangshan
Terracotta Warrior Commander in Xi’an also in 2011
Terracotta warriors – without their weapons
Silk Road traveler with Martial Art master in Lhasa Tibet
Martial art classes – Lhasa Tibet
Happy kids in Lhasa
Old friend relating a story in Lhasa
Writer in Lhasa
Potala Palace – It’s huge inside and has been splendidly refurbished – a timepiece of history living in eternal now. Plan to spend at least half a day to visit.
Writer posing with monks at Potala Palace
Ethiopia
On left is Ethiopia’s National World Taekwondo coach Adisu Hurgessa; on right is Solomon Tufa. In 2014 Solomon went to the 2nd African Youth Games, with expenses paid by the Olympic Committee accompanied by his team with two other boys and three girls. Between the six of them they brought home five gold medals and one bronze, placing 1st in all Africa.
Solomon and Silk Road writer G. Brundage happy after lunch and and interview
My friends in Ethiopia told me about a martial art school but weren’t sure what kind of martial art. We visited anyways and found out it was a Karate School. Never mind, I have Ni Dan in Karate also and taught the class for half an hour. The electricity went out for a while, but we kept training. Very kind and splendid martial artists made me feel at home in a far away land.
Writer with Sensei in Tigray, Ethiopia
Writer about to start stretching routine indicating to breath in through the nose, and out through the mouth. The students there naturally, highly disciplined and motivated.
Photo of painting at National Museum of Ethiopia
Writer with Ethiopian brother and translator Filimon who in 2018 was an IT student at Mekelle University. Now, due to the civil war there he’s a refugee in Addis Ababa. Photo taken in St. Mary of Zion Church by my other brother KB Miller.
A boy and his young camel in Axum, Ethiopia
Girl with her family on her way to church during a religious festival
Ethiopia in 1840 was a huge nation
One of my favorite people in Addis Ababa, this gentleman walks around selling books. His English is excellent and he provided me with exactly the books I needed to learn a great deal about this ancient and beautiful land.
Georgia
Below are from Georgia (the country) July 2016 – Many thanks to Georgian ITF President Mr. Levan Tsaretashvili (on left in first photo) who was a constant friend and guide in Tbilisi and to Georgia’s history and culture.
Write at ITF Training headquarters – Georgian ITF President Mr. Levan Tsaretashvili on left
Revenge of the Green Belt – Really just having fun
Svetitskoveli Cathedral in Anceint Georgian Capital of Mtskheta
Inside Jvari Church_fortress above Mtskheta
L to R, Georgian ITF President Georgian Levan Tsaretashvili, writer and founder and General Secretary of Israeli Taekwon-Do Association Leo Oros Duek- at Mtskheta
The merging of two great rivers, the Aragvi and the Mtkvan, one from the mountains which is very blue, and the other from the plains which is richer in silt. Mtskheta was a major Silk Road site for a thousand years.
National Museum of Georgia
Below is from visit to the WTF National Training Center during training for part of the Junior team, and with interview with National Team Coach Loseb Osidzein in Tbilisi Georgia, July 18, 2016. They had just returned from one international competition and preparing for another so this workout was abbreviated. Head Trainer Osidze had an incredible competition career of his own, a great sense of humor and is genuinely loved by his team.
Kyrgyzstan
A day with Vitalii Oleinichenko, President ITF Kyrgyzstan and President of the Chuy Regional Taekwondo Federation – July 28, 2015 Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. It was Summer vacation and most residents of Kyrgyzstan’s capital city were vacationing out of town. None-the-less I managed to find Vitalii Oleinichenko’s home address and paid him a visit. Fortunately he was very welcoming, invited me in and I had the chance to interview him and get up to speed on Taekwondo in Kyrgyzstan. Near the end of that interview I mentioned my desire to visit the archeological site of Suyab, now called Ak-Beshim. He said he’d never been there but very kindly volunteered to come along and explore the ancient capital city.
Before looking at the archeological site, some background helps understand its significance in history. It was once a great Silk Road trading center and to the Chinese, a frontier outpost.
Suyab also known as Ordukent (modern-day Ak-Beshim), was an ancient Silk Road city located some 50 km east from Bishkek, and 8 km west southwest from Tokmok, in the Chu river valley, present-day Kyrgyzstan. The ruins of this city, along with other archeological sites associated with the Silk Road, was inscribed in 2014 on the UNESCO World Heritage List as the Silk Roads: the Routes Network of Chang’an-Tianshan Corridor World Heritage Site.
The settlement of Sogdian merchants sprang up along the Silk Road in the 5th or 6th centuries. The name of the city derives from that of the Suyab River, whose origin is Iranian (in Persian: suy means “toward”+ ab for “water”, “rivers”). It was first recorded by Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang who traveled in the area in 629.
Traveling 500 li to the north west of Great Qing Lake, we arrive at the city of the Suye River. The city is 6 or 7 li in circuit; various Hu (“barbarian”) merchants here came from surrounding nations congregate and dwell. The soil is favorable for red millet and for grapes; the woods are not thick, the climate is windy and cold; the people wear garments of twilled wool. Traveling from Suye westward, there are a great number of isolated towns; in each there is a chieftain; these are not dependent on one another, but all are in submission to the Tujue.
Ye. I. Lubo-Lesnichenko. Svedeniya kitaiskikh pismennykh istochnikov o Suyabe (Gorodishche Ak-Beshim). [Information of Chinese Written Sources about Suyab (Ak-Beshim)]. // Suyab Ak-Beshim. St. Petersburg, 2002. Pages 115-127.
During the reign of Tong Yabgu Qaghan, Suyab was the principal capital of the Western Turkic Khaganate. The khagan also had a summer capital in Navekat near the springs north of Tashkent in the Talas Valley, the capitals are being noted as the westernmost capital of Western Turkic Khaganate. There was a sort of symbiosis, with the Sogdians responsible for economical prosperity and the Gokturks in charge of the city’s military security.
Following the downfall of the khaganate, Suyab was absorbed into the Tang dynasty, of which it was a western military outpost between 648 and 719. A Chinese fortress was built there in 679, and Buddhism flourished. According to some accounts, the great poet Li Bai (Li Po) was born in Suyab. The Chinese traveler Du Huan, who visited Suyab in 751, found among the ruins a still-functioning Buddhist monastery, where Princess Jiaohe, daughter of Ashina Huaidao, used to dwell. Suyab was one of the Four Garrisons of Anxi Protectorate until 719, when it was handed over to Sulu Khagan of the Turgesh, appointed by the Tang court as the “Loyal and Obedient Qaghan”. After Sulu’s murder in 738, the town was promptly retaken by Tang Chinese forces, along with Talas.
The fort was strategically important during the wars between the Tang dynasty and the Tibetan Empire. In 766, the city fell to a Qarluq ruler, allied with the nascent Uyghur Khaganate. Of the subsequent history of Suyab there is little record, especially after the Chinese evacuated the Four Garrisons in 787. David Nicolle states that Suyab provided 80,000 warriors for the Qarluq army and that it was governed by a man known as “King of Heroes”. Hudud al-Alam, completed in 983, lists Suyab as a city of 20,000 inhabitants. It is believed to have been supplanted by Balasagun in the early 11th century and was abandoned soon thereafter. (Source: Wikipedia; downloaded 2022.11.06) (Also see: The Chinese Silk Road as World Cultural Heritage Route – A systematic Approach towards Identification and Nomination, by UNESCO. PDF can be downloaded from HERE.) The above is quoted to make the points: 1) The hallways of history are longer, and 2) ebbs and flows of power more complex than most people might imagine.
Suyab, the ancient Silk Road city is located some 50 km east from Bishkek, and 8 km west southwest from Tokmok.
Accompanied by Vitalii we approached the archeological site not knowing what to expect, however this hill is the landmark to look for.
The shapes were the foundations of buildings. After initial excavation archeologists coat the walls with a loose cement/mud/straw mixture to protect the ancient buildings. Those farms in the background cover parts of the ancient city.
From this photo one gets a good idea of the shape of an ancient building. What one sees in archeological sites like this might be the foundation, or the 2nd or 3rd story of a mostly still buried building.
I was a bit surprised there was no fence around this historical landmark and would love to see it fully excavated and restored!
Vitalii surveying the remains of an ancient civilization. Probably we both wondered about what buried treasures lay beneath the surface.
Curiosity, healthy sports, martial arts in general and Taekwondo in particular helps bring people and civilizations together, a common story along the Silk Roads.
A lost city, found again.
After the time travel and hiking around the ruins, it was time for dinner.
That’s Vitalii, I and our driver.
The baked beef dumplings and soup were divine!
After dinner on our way to the van, I saw this gentleman wearing an MMA tank-top and thought it interesting.
The people, places and things we spend time with live on within us I believe. How many babies were born, elderly passed, and warriors died in this ancient Silk Road trading center during its 500+ year history? We live on in the memories of others and I won’t forget this travel through time with ITF president Vitalii who was so kind to spend the afternoon there with me.
Pakistan
Below are from a visit Pakistan’s WTF team led by former international peacekeeper (in Mogadishu, Somalia, 1994) and current WTF President Lt. Col. Waseem (Retired). (Center left in the first photo below.) Col. Waseem was one of only very few Federation Presidents to invite me to his home for the first interview, and was an extraordinarily gracious host during my stay in Lahore. He has led his talented teams to competitions in over 70 countries.
WTF President Col. Waseem center right along with part of the Junior Team
Junior team training
Mohenjo Daro Archeological site
Mohenjo Daro Archeological site
Mohenjo Daro Archeological site
Replica of 4,000 year old statuette of “Dancing Girl” found in Mohenjo Daro Archeological site
Writer taking photos at Mohenjo Daro archeological site
Buddha with mustache at National Museum in Karachi
Bronze Age spear heads – National Museum, Karachi
Man with family visiting the remains of the Temple of Sun, at Taxila archeological site
Temple of Xuangzang at Taxila archeological site
Taxila archeological site
Remains of St. Andrew’s church at Taxila archeological site
Lahore Royal Fort Shahi Qila
Lahore Royal Fort Shahi Qila
A group of school boys touring Lahore Royal Fort Shahi Qila
Lahore Royal Fort Shahi Qila
Lahore Royal Fort_- “Sheesh Mehal” was the Harem
Nat Museum Karachi
Nat Museum Karachi Dble edged swords 2nd c BC – 1st c AD
Dolman Shopping mall in Karachi
Photo taken from my taxi window while stopped at a red light. This photo summarizes my feelings about the open, friendly, happy people of Pakistan.
Qatar
Below are photos from Silk Road Taekwondo Friendship Tour taken during visit to Qatar July 2017. Being Summer in a mostly desert Middle Eastern country, it was “a bit” warm, but the paradise like oasis, shade from palm trees and good friends keeps it cool and wonderful.
Photo taken after interview with Qatar’s WTF Secretary General Mr. Eid Ali Al-Muraikhi
Qatar’s WTF Master Jae Kun Shin 7th Dan and wife greet visitor
Master Jae Kun Shin and wife
Part of Qatar’s National WTF Team
Junior class doing meditation at the beginning of class
Junior class training
Master Jae Kun Shin’s assistant instructors really can fly and kick things quite high up there at the same time!
Writer warming up with bag
Master Jae Kun Shin’s training center is easy to find. This is the sign outside
Taekwondo is very popular in Qatar. This was one of my health facilities I found with TKD training
Downtown Doha, Qatar
Blowup of map of the Northwest region of Qatar, where most of the ancient forts were located
A page from the military training manual “Al Furusiyya” I found at Qatar’s “Islamic History Museum’s” electronic library.
A blessed relief, an oasis in the desert
Remains of Khidaj Fort
A montage of my photos from Doha
Painting of Ottoman Warrior I found at a seaside restaurant in Doha
Al Zubarah Fort
Books in the Rare Book Collection at the library of the Museum of Islamic History in Doha
Early morning jogging along the Corniche (seaside road)
Writer with Saleh, friend from the swordshop
Writer with Shamsan Algebahy from Yemen, the easy-going manager of magnificent sword shop who helped me select and learn how to wear: Thobe – long white tunic or robe, Sirwal – loose white pants worn underneath, Thagiyah – skullcap, Ghuthrain – headscarf, and, Agal – black cord to hold the Ghuthrain in place
Happy camel
Back in the Oasis
Zuhair – Assistant to Qatar’s Taekwondo Federation’s Secretary General Mr. Eid Ali Al-Muraikhi and Logistics master for Qatar’s international teams
Thailand
My photos from Thailand are in two batches. The first are from September 2019 when I visited with a friend on a tight timeline, though I got some good Muay Thai photos from Rajadamnern Stadium, and cultural background photos from the National Museum in Bangkok and gem centers in Bangkok and Chanthaburi town.
My most recent visit started in October 2021 and I have stayed for the past year. Most of that time however I was teaching in public schools in small towns with no Taekwondo, however I traveled around a bit again and got some good historical, cultural and more Muay Thai background photos. I hope to have the time to visit some Taekwondo training centers in the near future as I’ve recently arrived in a real city, and hope to visit Bangkok soon after.
2019 – Before breakfast on Khaosan Road where 35 years previously there was a great Muay Thai club, which has since moved to another location.
Turkey
Below are photos from the Silk Road Taekwondo Friendship Tour in Turkey, August 2016
Interview with Turkey’s WTF Media Coordinator, WTF Auditor and ETU Exco Member Mr. Ali Sagirkaya
Turkish National Team Training
Sparring practice
Elif Oltabak wiping out the competition
Left to right Ikra Kayir age 15, Coach Erdal Tore, age 29 & Elif Oltabak age 13
Part of Turkey’s WTF Junior Team with Coaches
Stone Age knives, bowls, cups and other earthenware at the Museum of Anatolian Civilization, located on the south side of Ankara Castle, Ankara
Other stone age tools – predating the Bronze Age that started in 3,300 B.C.E.
Bronze age weapons
Bronze age weapons
3,000 year old necklace
Proof there are aliens! (Just joking) Unfortunately I didn’t get the caption for this lovely bronze sculpture
Spear heads
Funerary sculpture
The bull was the ultimate symbol of masculine prowess throughout Central Asia to and including Turkey. Where as many worshiped the Goddess, others, the Bull.
Orthostats of Procession – Depiction of three marching female figures in long dresses with high headdresses. They are considered to be the nuns of the Goddess Kubaba – a Syrian goddess associated with Alalakh and Carchemish and adopted into the Hurrian and Hittite pantheons.
Charioteers – Orthostats of Herald’s Wall 900-700 BC
Orthostats of Herald’s Wall 900-700 BC
This depiction clarifies the next photo and demonstrates the use of camels for military and/or hunting purporses nearly 3,000 years ago – predating common assumptions about the beginning of the domestication of camels.
Presumably a metaphoric depiction concerning the fate of enemy soldiers.
Goddesses
Fight of the bull and lion_8th C. BC
Funerary Stela of Gladiator Chrisampelos, Marble Roman Period 2nd Century AD
Hittite Collection
Orthostats of Herald’s Wall 900-700 BC
Marble depiction of boy hunting lion. Presumably he held two spears in the original work.
Suluhan is a historical caravanserai (han) in Ankara. Hans were the trading centers at the western end of the Silk Roads. Suluhan is still open, but more of a collection of small retail stores and cafes than a trading center today.
Inside Suluhan
Writer outside Topkapi Palace – the Ottoman Empire’s Imperial Palace that served as the main residence and administrative headquarters of the Ottoman sultans. The Sultan’s family lived there as well and it had sizable harem quarters one may visit. The finest boudoir however was for the Sultan’s mother. It is likely more intrigues occurred within that palace than any other in history.
When Janissaries (elite infantry units that formed the Ottoman Sultan’s household troops and the first modern standing army in Europe) rebelled (usually to get higher pay) they threatened to overturn the cooking pot. This is that pot.
Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar Entrance “Nuruosmaniye Camii” built 1748-1755
Upside down Medusa’s head used as a pillar in the Yerebatan Saray Roman Cistern in Istanbul. Romans often used booty from nations they conquered to adorn their architectural works.
Artist’s depiction of the Hippodrome – the Eastern Roman Empire’s equivalent to Rome’s Coliseum. However, gladiatorial fighting was outlawed in Constantinople (today’s Istanbul) early in history. Chariot races then became the popular rage.
Artists depiction of chariot race in the Hippodrome
The Obelisk of Theodosius is the Ancient Egyptian obelisk of Pharaoh Thutmose III re-erected in the Hippodrome of Constantinople by the Roman emperor Theodosius I in the 4th century AD.
A recently unearthed passageway presumably used by slaves to the Hippodrome. I found it by accident wandering around behind the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art
Writer in the Hippodrome
The Walled Obelisk is a Roman monument in the former Hippodrome of Constantinople, ( now called Sultanahmet Square) in Istanbul. It is located west of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque at the south end of the ancient chariot-racing track of Constantinople’s central barrier, beside the Obelisk of Theodosius and the Serpentine Column.
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art. There is an amazing story about a part of the history of that building during ancient times in my book: “Silk Road Taekwondo Quest.”
Mechanical artifact in the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art
Griffin – Anatolian Seljuk Period, 13th Century, in the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art
Prayer Rug, believed to have been owned by either the Holy Prophet Mohammad (PBUH), his family or companions.
Chance meeting at my hotel with distinguished professors who illuminated the hallways of history for me during the latter part of my explorations in Turkey. Far left is Professor Yilmoz Selim Erdol. Center is Professor Gregory McMahon. See my book “Silk Road Taekwondo Quest” to find out how much and what I learned from them.
Uzbekistan
Introducing ITF champion instructors Furkat and Umida, some of the National WTF coaches, mangers and team of Uzbekistan, Jhoon Rhee master instructor and helpful translator Mirzahid Mirdjalalov, and some of the most iconic historical/cultural sites in Uzbekistan.
On right are World Class Taekwondoka and super-champion husband Furkat, and next to him is his wife, Umida who is also Uzbekistan’s ITF World Champion (X 2) and Asian Champion (X 5), 4th Dan.
That’s the Silk Road traveler Coach Stone teaching a stretching routine from Yoga adapted to martial arts and especially high kicks.
Doing pushups in the center splits position does help as it distracts attention from the leg stretching process.
That’s a super side kick there. Coach Umida is not only a formidable competitor, but along with her husband, a super coach.
Yes, people can fly in Uzbekistan and there is the proof.
Coach Umida leading the class.
That legs are longer than arms is a useful thing for good kickers.
After class Umida and Furkat square off for some fun.
Bukhara, the location of their Dojang is fabulously wealthy in history and archeological riches, however there are also quite a number of low-income families. Furkat and Umida, like many other ITF quanjanims give lessons to whoever has the desire and discipline to learn. They are good people.
Welcome to the WTF headquarters in Tashkent! This is a an incredible training center, one of if not the best I’ve ever seen with top international coaches, competitors and super facilities.
The WTF training hall.
Team Manager Ester Grigoryan on left, center is Uzbekistan TKD Referee Chairman Dmitriy Kim, and on right is Public Relations Specialist Sabina Akramadjanova.
Writer shakes the hand of Shokin Dmitriy: Gold Medal winner at the World Taekwondo Championships.
Left to right Uzbekistan National TKD Team head Coach Kim Alexander, writer G. Brundage and Team Manager Ester Grigoryan.
Rafalovich Nikita Silver medal World TKD Championships
Super-Champion Shokin Dmitriy
Uzbekistan National Team – looking good!
Changing gears here on the left is Jhoon Rhee 5th Dan Mirzahid Mirdjalalov translating for writer G. Brundage, Farrukh Usmanov Director of Academy of Art of Uzbekistan and Master Chief Archeologist Sheyko Konstanteen
5th Dan Mirzahid Mirdjalalov demonstrating spectacular kicks. Incidentally we went to lunch after class.
Silk Road traveler Coach Stone introduces another class to stretches tailored for high kicks.
These stretches by themselves are a form of preventative medicine and helpful to release stress at any time.
Magoki Attori Masjid – the silent repository of many ancient civilizations – basking placidly in the afternoon sun as it has for thousands of years.
Kalyan Minaret – Symbol of ancient Bukhara
Madrassa of Abdulaziz-Khan – across from Ulugbeg Madrassah
Ark of Bukhara is a massive fortress located in the city of Bukhara, Uzbekistan. It was initially built and occupied around the 5th century AD.
This is about the only way into this fortress – alive that is.
Decorative Ax – State Museum of History of Uzbekistan Tashkent
Museum of History of Uzbekistan, Tashkent
Writer in front of Madrassa
Samarkand – a wonder of the world.
Look good? Well you have to read my book to find the name and location of the restaurant.
The above photos are only a small sampling of the photos to be found in my book: Silk Road Taekwondo Quest that can be downloaded from the “Downloads” page on this site. The stories that go with the photos are the real heart of this journey for photos only capture the outer surface of things. Please recall the old saying: “If you read 1,000 books, you will have lived 1,001 lives. Incidentally the photos in my book are only a few of the 55,727 in my Silk Road photo collection, and there are many more to come as I continue this journey.